Experimental BBS Explossion 3

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Algae ---------------------------------------------------- - by Louis Hemmi (reprinted with permission) Scope ===== The scope of this examination - common algae varieties found in freshwater aquariums. This may be reposted in the conference periodically, with sections hopefully contributed by participants, not just the host. This is YOUR conference. Please feel free to add to or question whatever you see here. The host is not an expert, but more of a researcher-cum-editor. Algae, Varieties of ================== Some algae are "good", and others are "bad." In a well-maintained aquarium, most algae lies somewhere between these extremes. A minor presence of beneficial algae will be found as a consequence of good water quality and is easily kept in balance by algae-grazing animals or simple removal during maintenance. This algae is a natural result of having a container of nutrient-rich water and light. "Bad" algae either indicates poor water quality or is a type of algae that tends to overrun the tank and jeopardize the aesthetic benefits the aquarist is trying to effect. The label of "bad" is relative. For example, one type of green, hair-like algae is deemed a pestilence by some American aquarists, yet is promoted by European aquarists as a valuable addition to most tanks, serving as a food source for the livestock. Blue-green, slime or smear algae -------------------------------- Forms :Rapidly in bluish-green, slimy sheets and spreads rapidly over just about everything. Indicates:Usually, poor water quality. Blue-green algae can be beneficial by fixing nitrogen and may be seen in aquariums without measurable nitrates. Sometimes seen in small quantities between the substrate and aquarium sides. Like the blob from outer space, this smothers and kill plants. Strategy :Treatment with 200 mg of erythromycin phosphate per 10 gallons of water will usually eliminate blue-green algae but some experts feel it may also have adverse effects on the biological filter bed. If erythromycin is used for treatment, ammonia and nitrite levels should be carefully monitored. This manifestation is in reality cyanobacteria. It can be physically removed, but this is not a practicable long-term solution, as the aquarium conditions will likely enable it to thrive, and so it will return quickly. Brown algae ----------- Forms : These diatoms appear as soft brown clumpy patches in freshwater aquariums. Indicates: Lack of light or an excess of silicates Strategy : Increased light levels will usually make it disappear. Easily removed by wiping the glass or siphon vacuuming the affected area. Film algae ---------- Forms : On the aquarium glass and forms a thin haze. Strategy : Easily removed by wiping the glass. Considered normal with the higher light levels needed for good plant growth. Spot algae ---------- Forms : In thin, hard, circular, bright green spots, usually on the aquarium glass but also on plants under high light conditions. Indicates: Normal for planted tanks. Must be mechanically removed. Strategy : On acrylic aquariums, use a cloth pad or a gentle scouring pad like a cosmetic "Buff-Puff" and a lot of elbow grease. On glass tanks, scraping with a razor blade is most effective. Fuzz algae ---------- Forms : Grows mostly on plant leaves as separate, short (2-3mm) strands. Indicates: Considered normal. It might be a less "virulent" form of "beard" algae. Strategy: Easily controlled with algae eaters such as black mollies, otocinclus, pekoltia and siamese algae eaters. Beard algae ----------- Forms : Grows on plant leaves and is bright green. Individual strands have a very fine texture but it grows in thick patches and looks just like a green beard. It grows up to 4 cm. It cannot be removed mechanically. Indicates: This does not indicate bad water quality but grows very fast and overtakes the tank, making it a "bad" alga. Strategy : Can be eliminated with Simazine (Aquarium Pharmaceuticals "Algae-Destroyer"). Hair algae ---------- Forms : Grows in bright green clumps in the gravel, around the of base plants like Echinodorus and around mechanical objects. It has a coarser texture than "beard algae". Beard algae will ripple in the water current, hair algae tends to form matted clumps. Individual strands can get to 5 cm or more. Strategy : Easy to remove mechanically by twirling a toothbrush in it. Can be troublesome if left unchecked. This is a popular food supplement for fish among European aquarists. Thread algae ------------ Forms : In long, thin strands up to 30 cm or more. Tends toward a dull green color (hard to tell because it is so thin). Indicates: Usually, too much iron (>0.15 ppm). Strategy : Easily removed with a toothbrush like hair algae. Staghorn algae -------------- Forms : Looks like individual strands of hair algae but tends to grow in single branching strands like a deer antler and is gray-green. Seems to grow mostly on tank equipment near the surface. Strategy : Difficult to remove mechanically. Soak affected equipment in a 25% solution of household bleach and water to remove it. Brush algae ----------- Forms : This grows in feathery black tufts 2-3 mm long and tends to collect on slower growing leaves like Anubias, some Echinodorus and other wide leaf plants. Also tends to collect on mechanical equipment. This is actually a red alga in the genus Audouinella (other names: Acrochaetium, Rhodochorton, Chantransia). Strategy : It cannot easily be removed mechanically. Remove and discard the affected leaves. Equipment can be soaked in a 25% bleach solution, then scrubbed to remove the dead algae. Siamese Algae Eaters (Epalzeorhynchos siamensis) are known to eat this algae and can keep it in check. A more drastic measure is treatment with copper. Green water ----------- Forms : Green unicellular algae will sometimes reproduce so rapidly that the water will turn green. This is commonly called an "algae bloom." Indicates: Too much light, such as direct sunlight. Strategy : An algae bloom can be removed by filtering with micron cartridges or diatom filters. UV sterilizers can prevent the bloom in the first place. Green water is very useful in the raising of daphnia and brine shrimp. Algae Prevention ---------------- Algal spores are everywhere and will always be present in an aquarium unless Draconian measures are taken. For fish-only tanks, a properly set up UV sterilizer will kill algal spores in the water and prevent them from establishing a significant presence. For planted tanks, this is not a good solution since the UV light will also oxidize trace elements needed by the plants and will limit the plants' growth potential. Naturally, conditions that are good for growing plants are also good for growing algae. Fortunately, plants will usually beat out algae in the fight for the available nutrients. However, if there is an imbalance of nutrients, algae will use whatever is not used by the higher order plants. Different algae will utilize different nutrients, causing sporadic outbreaks of new algae types in apparently stable tanks when a temporary imbalance occurs. Prevention is far easier and more effective than eradication. To avoid introducing a new algae type to a planted tank with new plants, a simple bleach soak seems to work well. Mix 1 part bleach in 19 parts water and dunk the new plant in it for 2 minutes. Immediately rinse the plant in running water, then immerse it in water with a chlorine remover added to neutralize any remaining bleach. This will kill the algae and only temporarily slow down a healthy plant. Plants in poor condition may die from this treatment, but they probably would not have survived regardless. Algae Eaters ============ The most effective control of algae in a planted aquarium is the use of algae eating fish. It is especially critical in the set up of a new tank to make sure algae does not get established before the plants have had a chance to establish themselves. For this reason and to help the biological filtration get a good start, add some hardy algae eaters early on. Black mollies ------------- Black sailfin mollies are excellent candidates for the break-in period of a planted tank since they are cheap and easy to find. They are usually considered expendable and are removed after a month or so. It is important to NOT FEED THEM. If they are fed, they will not be quite so eager to consume algae. When they are hungry, they are eager consumers of most algae types seen during the break-in period. Otocinclus sp. -------------- Otocinclus are diligent algae eaters, but are best kept in schools due to their small size. One per 10 gallons is a useful rule of thumb. Various species of otos are seen in the shops at various times; most are good algae eaters but some are said to prefer the slime coat on fish to algae. Unfortunately, there seems to be no way to distinguish the "bad" otos from the normal otos. Some have reported Otos to be delicate fish, but this may be due to capture and shipping abuse rather than an inherent weakness. When a fish shop gets some in, it is wise to wait a while before purchasing to account for die offs. Some people report getting a dozen and having them die over a period of a few months until just a couple are left. Those then seem to survive a long time. "Plecostomus" sp. ----------------- Plecostomus is the generic name for a wide range of sucker-mouthed fish. Only the smaller types are useful in a planted tank, since the larger varieties tend to eat the plant along with the algae. Two common types that are useful are the "bristle-nosed plecostomus" and the "clown plecostomus" or Pekoltia. Both stay under 4" long and don't seem to cause much plant damage. You may observe broad-leafed plants being scraped too closely by the plecos, so they warrant some monitoring. Their diet can be supplemented by blanched or frozen spinach and bottom feeder tablets. They also appreciate a chunk of driftwood in the aquarium to satisfy their need for cellulose. I know of one guy who has been awakened by the sound of his large pleco gnawing on driftwood in an aquarium two feet from his bed ! Siamese Algae Eater ------------------- Siamese algae eaters, Epalzeorhynchos siamensis, is a very good algae eater and is known to eat black brush (red) algae. However, these fish may be hard to find. The two prevalent fish in this family include the commonly seen Epalzeorhynchos kallopterus, (Flying Fox) and the Siamese Algae Eater. The Flying Fox is the more attractive of the two. It tends to have a brownish body with a very distinct, sharp-edged black stripe with a distinct, thin gold or bronze stripe above it. These tend to be very aggressive when they are full grown and don't eat red algae (as far as one aquarium reference is concerned). The Siamese Algae Eater is the same shape as the Flying Fox but tends toward a silverish body with a somewhat ragged black stripe. There may be an indistinct gold or bronze stripe above the black. These are truly not aggressive and are good tank mates for discus and small tetras. When they are young, the differences between E. kallopterus and E. siamensis are slight, especially if you haven't seen both types together. Unfortunately, most wholesalers don't sell fish to stores by their scientific name and the common names that are used sometimes get pretty silly (like "siamese flying fox"). If you really can't tell which one the store has, buy it anyway, but be prepared to sacrifice it if it turns out to be the wrong kind (unless your fish aren't bothered by it, of course). Farlowella ---------- Farlowella are useful algae eaters although they are very sensitive to water conditions. They type known as the Royal Farlowella will get too large for a plant tank and may cause damage. Happy Fishkeeping ! ■ Louis Hemmi - ILink Aquarium Conference Host ■